WHAT IT IS LIKE TO CYCLE THROUGH THE ATACAMA DESERT, CHILE
When in Chile, chances are you'll be popping over to the Atacama Desert. One of the driest places on earth there's a whole array of things to do and see. Many will involve tours but if you're willing to brave the heat, there's so much you can do just from renting a bike.
When I first saw pictures of the Atacama desert, it looked like a totally different planet to me. Like I could almost be on Mars! I knew I wanted to explore as much of the region as possible in the few days I had and determined to set out doing it on a solo adventure. After a3 day Salar de Uyuni tour, going at my own pace and making my own decisions was just what I needed!
Luckily the bike rental shops had some really great information on where I could visit and I could choose based on difficulty levels. Now just to put this out there, I am relatively fit but I still have my limits. As much as I'm always willing to push them, I know how far I will go.
I chose to cycle to Quebrada del Diablo and back which is around 8km each way. Feeling more confident on my second day but a little terrified of going solo, I chose Laguna Cejar, which is 19km each way. The main reason for choosing these two paths was a) the paths are relatively flat the whole way and b) they're easy to get to.
You can also cycle to Valle de la Luna, Valle de la Muerte and a whole range of other beautiful places. The bike rental shop can advise you of the difficulty levels, helping you make the best decision for yourself. I would have loved to have tried Valle de la Luna but decided against it given that I was going solo and unsure of cycling uphill for the most part there.
Balancing my camera on a precarious rock!
Benefits of going solo vs taking a tour
With a tour:
Benefits: organised and easy if you're looking to relax and just get from a to b without much hassle. Most tours last a few hours in the morning or afternoon which frees up your day to do something else or chill by the pool. There are also certain activities such as Star Gazing or see the Geysers where you'll need a tour. I had already seen similar sights on the Salar de Uyuni tour so a few of these were easy to rule out.
Cons: More expensive and most tours don't include the cost of entry into the park. For example for Laguna Cejar, a tour would have been 13,000-16,000 pesos + 15,000 pesos (entry in the afternoon). On a bike, the rental cost 3000 pesos + 10,000 pesos (entry in the morning). That's around a $26 saving!
Going Solo:
Benefits: Go at your own pace and in your own time. There no-one telling you to hurry up with your photos and no time limits in doing anything. You can also beat the crowds and go during a time when no-one else goes. I pretty much had Laguna Cejar and Quebrada del Diablo to myself!
Cons: It's a little daunting going on your own sometimes. What if something happens? You'll more than likely also need to plan your day around the one activity. Unless you're super fit, then why not plan multiple excursions in one day?!
What to know before cycling through the Atacama Desert
#1. Not all the routes have roads made of tarmac. It's a bumpy ride and on my first day, it took some getting used to trying to avoid potholes. Parts of the roads can be sandy and gravelly so steering the bike can be tricky at first. But you get used to it.
#2. There is little to no shade. On the way back from Laguna Cejar I could feel the heat of the afternoon and needed to stop a few times for a short pause and water. Luckily I found a cactus and a dried up tree that provided enough shade. But there really won't be much so come prepared with sunscreen and a hat.
#3. Bring enough water, lunch and snacks with you. There is NOTHING on the way to Laguna Cejar. For Quebrada del Diablo you'll pass some smoothie carts if you're lucky. Francheria, a French bakery just on the outside of town do really great sandwiches to-go. You could also prepare lunch from the local market or if you bump into the lady selling giant empanadas on a trolley in town, buy one for 1500 pesos.
Cycling Atacama Desert | Oops I booked Again
Did I mention there's nothing?!
#4. On the way to Laguna Cejar, I really didn't bump into many cyclists. In fact, I'm pretty sure I'm the only one who cycled there that day. I bumped into one French man on his way to Laguna Ojos del Salar who kindly stopped to advise me that I was sitting too low down on my bike which would exert way too much energy and tire me out more quickly. Turns out he was right and my new seating position a little higher up made it much easier to pedal. Needless to say, I've been riding a bike the wrong way my whole life! You live and learn!!
#5. Leave early. I left at 10 am and arrived at 11:45 am at Laguna Cejar. It was much easier to cycle in the morning and go for long stretches than pedal in the heat of the afternoon after 1 pm. Bike rental shops open around 8:30am/9am, so it's a good idea to get there early!
#6. Most bike rental shops will rent you a bike for 3000 pesos for 6 hours. The bike rental comes with all safety gear, including a helmet, light reflecting jacket, toolbox, pump and a couple of other things to which I have no idea. Definitely carry everything in your backpack as you never know!
#7. Both Laguna Cejar and Quebrada del Diablo are easy to navigate. Provided you get on the right road (the bike shop will give you a map) it's a straight road to both places.
#8. Take the WhatsApp number and contact details of your rental agency just in case. My agency, seeing the worried look on my face and knowing I'd be going alone, provided me with his WhatsApp number. In case of emergency, he would come and look for me. It sounds silly but in the unlikely event that something does happen to you, it's comforting to know there'll be someone who'll look out for you.
Laguna Cejar reflections
The reflections are stunning!
How difficult is it to cycle through the Atacama desert really?
It's hard to say and this is subjective for everyone. Now that I've done it, I would do it again without hesitation.
Quebrada del Diablo is easy. There are many cyclists on this path too so you're not alone. It's also one of the shorter routes you can do and if you're up for it, you can stop by Pukara de Quitor on the way.
Laguna Cejar was more of a push for me especially the last 5km. However, the main difficulty came from the heat. If you can do this on a cloudy day, it will help a lot! If you can't, there'll be a freezing Laguna waiting for you to jump right into and float around in! :)
Happy cycling!!
Don't forget your swimsuit!!
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