Guide to Spending a Day in La Paz, Bolivia
La Paz isn't for everyone.
Travelling through Bolivia, the chances are that you'll be passing through the bustling city of La Paz more than once. Misunderstood, disliked and sometimes even avoided.
Yet, La Paz has so much to offer.
It may not be the country's capital (that title belongs to Sucre), but it does hold the seat of the government. It may not be the serene oasis that is Lake Titicaca or encompass the charm of the whitewashed city of Sucre. But its surreal panoramic views, eclectic mix of traditional and modern mindsets and chaotic nuances will heighten your senses to a city rich in cultural diversity and heritage.
My initial thoughts were a night or two will suffice. Over the course of a few days, the more I got to know the city, the more I realised how misled I had been.
More to La Paz than meets the eye, here are my favourite things to do in the city for fellow travellers.
Take the MiTeleférico to El Alto
Starting at an altitude of 3640 metres, La Paz is the highest capital city in the world. Unquestionably the best way to see the city is to get above it to capture stunning, unparalleled views.
Taking the red line from Estación Mi Teleférico Central up to the terminus El Alto and capture a birds eye panoramic view. You'll pass over some of the city's poorest districts (a stark contrast from the green teleférico), glide over Cementerio General de La Paz and arrive at a breathtaking viewpoint over 4000m high.
At the top, you have two choices. Just beside the teleférico station, there is a viewing platform, safe for you to take photos and view the city through a glass lens.
If you're feeling a little braver, venture outside and on the right, you'll find a viewing platform where you'll be able to capture panoramic views of Nuestra Señora de La Paz (Our Lady of Peace).
If you do decide to go beyond the teleférico station, it's best not to go alone and go carefully. The first time I attempted to head to the viewing platform, I could feel all eyes on me and did not feel safe. Feeling very uncomfortable, I headed straight back to the teleférico station.
Needless to say, I didn't give up and the next day a Chilean girl at my hostel agreed to come with me. Luckily we stumbled into a market that day, full of people and felt much safer walking through the streets and getting our cameras out.
My advice to you is if you do decide to go, the best time would be during the market on Thursdays and Sundays. When you walk out of the station, turn right, walk down 4-5 blocks, down some stairs. We took our pictures on a bridge under construction. There's another viewing platform, if you cross over the motorway, on top of a small shack. Climb on top of the roof and take some jaw-dropping stunning pictures.
Take some mate. Sit and enjoy.
I was hesitant to take photos in the market. As always, if in doubt, leave your valuables at home and take care in public areas.
Tickets cost 3 Bolivianos each way on theteleférico. If you get peckish, pop by the pizzeria to the right as you exit the station. They're tasty and cheap! The yellow teleférico also offers beautiful views from the top, where you'll find a mirador on the left and right of the station. To be honest, any teleférico will give you a view to remember.
Cementerio General de La Paz
Crowds and chaos are not just confined to the bustling city of La Paz. In fact, Cementerio General is so overcrowded that your space is reserved for a maximum of 10 years.
Tombs are stacked above each other and decorated with memories from loved ones. Murals are painted with graffiti and colourful art. It was eery but at the same time an interesting place to walk around, taking in cultural differences and traditions.
Watch Cholitas wrestle
I have to admit I am in two minds about this one. To put it out there, this show is purely for the benefit of tourists. For a couple of hours of entertainment, you're picked up by a tour bus from your hostel and taken to a venue in El Alto. There were no locals at the event I went to. Just gringo tourists.
Indigenous Bolivian women, known as Cholitas, dressed in traditional clothing battle it out and seriously kick some butt. And I mean they perform some amazing moves, spinning, backflipping and evening flying over the ring to nail down their opponents. I'm not hugely into wrestling but it was pretty cool at times.
Shows are held on Thursdays and Sundays. As you are venturing into El Alto, it is best to take a tour company at around 90 Bolivianos a ticket. You are able to go on your own if you choose to but just be mindful that El Alto isn't the safest of areas, especially at night.
Dine at a traditional Bolivian Restaurant
Within walking distance of the centre, Luciernagas Restaurant not only offers traditional homemade cuisine but the portions are so large you'll be questioning whether it was a good idea to get the set menu for lunch!
Best to go on an empty stomach! You may even want to skip breakfast...
Mercado de las Bruja
The witches market (Mercado de las Bruja), home to many curious and wonderful souvenirs. The llama fetuses stand out. It's a very touristy market, however as you're more than likely to be passing by at some point you may as well stop by.
Safety in La Paz
I'll admit, I was really nervous about visiting La Paz, especially as a solo traveller. Be aware of fake taxis and fake police officers.
A Bolivian man I had met gave me some really good advice. If you do get stopped, reply "Vamos a la Estación de Policía". Or "Let's go to the Police Station". A fake police officer will always avoid this.
I met a girl who had been robbed by a fake police officer. Essentially she and a friend got the local bus instead of the tourist bus back from Copacabana. The local bus dropped them off at the bus station in El Alto instead of the central bus station. They got inside an unmarked taxi. The taxi proceeded to drive around and picked up another woman.
The car was then stopped by a "police officer" who first asked to search the bag of the other woman. She showed the contents of her handbag and no problems. Thinking that this lady had shown the police officer, it must be ok. My friend opened her bag up, the police officer took their money and then proceeded to harass them asking for USD. Fortunately, they didn't have much on them and the taxi driver threw them out of the car along with their bags. They were ok.
It's likely that the police officer, taxi driver and other woman were all in on it together. If you need to get a taxi, it's best to call a radio taxi beforehand (ask your hostel for a number). They do have Uber in La Paz, although there aren't many drivers on the road yet.
The Altitude
La Paz was the first place where the altitude really hit me. I've never felt so out of breath from walking up a hill! Pushing myself instead of allowing myself to adjust, I ended up getting sick in Copacabana.
The NHS (National Health Service in the UK) has some really great information on tackling altitude sickness.
Where to sleep in La Paz
Casa de Huéspedes "La Casa Bonita"
A budget-friendly otpion, it’s a homely place to stay. There’s also a sun terrace and garden to relax in when you need an afternoon break from all the hills and altitude.
Met Hotel
An elegant place to stay with beautiful city views, offering modern and comfortable rooms as well as spa facilities to unwind after a long day of exploring.
El Museo Hotel Boutique
Located a 10-minute walk from Sopocachi Teleferico Station in a trendy neighbourhood, this boutique hotel has charming period interiors and a small museum.
A cute hotel in a good location. The inside of the hotel is filled with artwork giving it a cosy and authentic feel.
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