REFLECTIONS OF ONE MONTH IN BALI
Starting my travels in Bali felt like a dream. Perhaps it was the cycling through rice fields in Eat Pray Love, Bali has an aura and mystery and I couldn't wait to discover this beautiful island.
However, if I'm going to be completely honest, after spending a month in Bali, I was in two minds of my time there. I struggled to connect with parts and not to mention it was one of the few places I've visited where I developed stomach problems from the food and water and was struggling to clear it up.
Here are my reflections of my one month visit to Bali.
Suarapura Retreat
I started my adventure nestled in a small rural village at the blissful Japanese inspired Suarapura Retreat. Taking a few days to unwind after leaving France, the suites overlook luscious rice paddies hidden in the jungle. During sunrise, as the sun peeps over the hills, the quietness and stillness are interrupted by the gentle crowing of roosters, with stunning views from your own private terrace.
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Inspired by this little oasis, I couldn't help putting my feet up and soaking in the warm fresh air and jungle vibes. And did I mention the infinity pool? As it's a small resort, for the most part, I had the pool entirely to myself :) Overlooked by the restaurant, whether it's breakfast, lunch or dinner, you'll be guaranteed a gorgeous, serene view!
With an onsite yoga hall and spa, you can easily rest up for days without noticing the time fly by!
Tegallalang Rice Terraces
A one hour walk or just a 10-minute drive from the Suarapura Resort lies nestled in the hills the Tegallalang Rice Terraces. Famous for its beautiful serene views of rice paddies, be sure to take a cold drink from one of the cafes looking down from the top after your hike.
Local Rice Paddies
As beautiful as the Tegallalang Rice Terraces were, I couldn't help but question if these rice terraces were just there for the benefit of tourists. Keen to discover authentic parts of Bali, I decided to take a morning hike through local rice paddies which my hosts at the Suarapura Resort advised represented a more traditional part of Bali.
As I began my trek, around 10 minutes in, going uphill I came across my first obstacle. An incredibly aggressive looking dog. Immediately he started barking, growling and getting closer to me. Nervous, I lent down and picked up a couple of rocks. Luckily his owner working outside on the farm, yelled something which made the dog go inside. Dogs in Asia whilst pets, are working dogs and have a job to do. If they sense danger or their territory being compromised, they won't hesitate to pounce. Thankfully this time, I was free to continue with my walk.
Not long after I reached the local rice paddies, I immediately understood what my hosts meant. Being the only tourist there I pretty much stood out like a sore thumb and as you've probably gathered from reading this blog, I love having a place to myself! Or almost! Local people were working and a few were bathing in the streams. I wandered around sticking to the path, not wanting to intrude. It was truly beautiful and wonderful to experience the serene quietness and freshness of the paddies. Had it not been for the mozzies and forgetting my repellent back at the resort, I could have easily spent hours wandering and exploring the area!
Holy Water Temple (Pura Dalem Pingit Lan Pura Kusti)
Just a five-minute walk from the Suarapura Resort lies the magical temple of Pura Dalem Pingit Lan Pura Kusti. The Balinese come here to pray and bathe in the holy waters. If you're in the area, it's a must-see.
Mount Batur
This experience was awesome! So awesome I wrote an entire post about it right here :)Whilst there are hundreds of people who do this hike every day, watching the sunrise over the clouds was breathtaking! The view overlooking Mount Agung alone is enough to make your jaw drop!
Ubud
There's definitely a hippie centric vibe and with an endless choice of veggie/vegan cafes and yoga retreats, health and relaxation are at its core. I did a couple of classes at the Yoga Barn however as someone who loves the student-teacher interaction, it lacked personal touch with so many students per class.
I had read a lot online about the Monkey Forest beforehand and was almost not going to visit. It turns out that the monkeys really aren't that bad and if they do misbehave, there are guards on standby to give them a bit of a "talking to". Keep your belongings inside your bag, including anything they can easily snatch such as your hat or sunglasses.
My fave cafe by far in Ubud has to be the Clear Water Cafe. Walking in is a little like walking into a fish tank. It was so good I couldn't help but go twice!!
Canggu + Seminyak
Hmmm... now, where do I start.I don't think I've mentioned this yet, but if you're visiting Bali it's really handy to know how to ride a scooter. Like... REALLY HANDY!! I took a local scooter lesson which may or may not have been the best of ideas as it left me feeling reluctant to get back on a scooter EVER again. During a two hour lesson in a parking lot, we spent around 110 minutes doing number 8's. After the first 20 minutes, he proceeded to teach me how to ride and balance with one hand (I'm a total beginner if I haven't mentioned that yet!) going in circles for around 20 minutes. Not kidding, it was freakin' hard!! I don't think I can do one-handed number 8's on a regular bike, let alone one with an engine!
Perhaps there was some logic to the craziness but it was totally lost on me! Especially when he jumped on the back and purposely made the bike wobble. Naturally, I tensed up and was put off riding a scooter for the rest of my trip to Indonesia (until I had to learn in Lombok!).
So how did I get around?!Go-Jek and Grab! Total life saver! If it hadn't of been for these apps, I probably would have packed up and gone somewhere else sooner. Keep in mind that the local taxi drivers really don't like these apps and I would avoid using them in the main tourist areas such as Batu Bolong or Seminyak beach.
So why did I go to Canggu and Seminyak?Despite being very western, I'd read raving reviews on how it was great to base yourself there as a digital nomad. The wifi is pretty good and joining co-working spaces such as Dojo will give you a great grounding for building an online business and having a base to travel from. There's a pretty awesome veggie/vegan scene and after three weeks I had built up my favourites including the Shady Shack and Peloton Supershop.
Here's a sample of just a few of the delicious delights:
But something in me niggled...Having a base was great to get work done and meeting others also working online was a great source of inspiration. With a cheap villa close to the beach and beautiful sunsets, I couldn't really complain. But at the same time, I was itching to get out and discover Indonesia. Whilst culturally I wasn't the biggest fan of Canggu and Seminyak, something about it just didn't vibe with me. It was still a great base for a few weeks whilst I focused on my online business and getting my stomach back on track or a little better in my case for the rest of my travels.
Sometimes you just have to stop and listen to your body before getting up and going again. For me, getting into a stable routine was just what I needed and having that for a few weeks on Bali allowed me to get on track.
Sunsets in Canggu and Seminyak
Thanh Lot
The easiest way to get to Thanh Lot is to get on the back of a Go-Jek from Canggu. It's around 30 minutes one way and pretty cheap too. The best time to go is during sunset.
Uluwatu
Another reason to learn how to ride a scooter if you don't already! You'll need it for Uluwatu.
If getting a Grab is a tad annoying in Canggu, Uluwatu is even worse. Local taxi drivers run the show and many grab drivers just won't pick you up if you're in a red zone. I didn't stay long enough in Uluwatu to find out which parts are OK to use the app, everywhere I went seemed to be a total pain. Local taxi drivers were much more expensive.
View of the cliffs of Uluwatu TempleThe sunset from Uluwatu temple is dreamy! With many beaches to discover, it's a great place for a relaxing 2 days!I absolutely loved my villa and couldn't help spend an afternoon lounging by the pool! Located a short walking distance from Bingin Beach and Dreamland Beach.
Reflections on one month in Bali
Bali left me in two minds.If I ever do go back, I'd definitely be intrigued to visit northern parts of the island. Sadly, Canggu and Seminyak just didn't vibe with me. It's hard to predict what travel will be like and often we have a vision of a destination before we visit. Perhaps I had set my expectations too high?
Have you ever visited a destination with high hopes of falling hard and left feeling disappointed?
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