Tayrona National Park: A Sunrise to Remember
Sunsets are proof that no matter what happens, every day can end beautifully.
- Kristen Butler
This is how my day started.
I'm swaying dreamily in a hammock perched on a rock. Out at sea, waking up to the roars of crashing waves as the sun rises over Tayrona National Park, with glimmering hues of dusty pink and orange.
Cocooned in a hammock all night, I stretch my arms, stumbling out to check out one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever seen.
There come moments, standing still in time, it's hard to imagine that this time last year I was frozen with fear, in decision making paralysis on whether or not I should choose to travel the world.
Now I'm looking over a beautiful National Park, savouring each moment as the sun rises and the sunsets. Tayrona National park for me is a symbol of how far I've come through my journey in South America and I still wake up to relish in the simplest of things.
Feeling calm and still. I made the right decision.
Tayrona National park is one of the must-dos of Colombia's Caribbean coastline. If you're deciding to go, whoop! Now you're probably wondering how to get there, when to go and where to stay.
I definitely pottered around asking at least a dozen people. It turns out to be much simpler than I envisaged. And there's no reason to stay in Santa Marta (unless you really want to!)
Here's how to navigate your stay in Tayrona National Park.
What is it like to hike inside Tayrona National Park
Assuming you have a reasonable level of fitness, the hike from the park entrance to Cabo San Juan is around 2 hours.
If you're staying overnight, then you can take your time getting up there, stopping off at Arrecifes and La Piscina. The latter is amazing for snorkelling and swimming!!
Cabo San Juan is, to be honest, realllly crowded. During the day, the beaches are pretty much packed with day-trippers and those that stayed over the night before.
Head up to the rock with the hammocks overlooking the bay for some amazing views of the beach.
For some quieter beaches, carry on walking to the next couple of beaches. They're nudist beaches, and whilst not as safe for swimming, they're certainly more chilled and private with fewer people.
Sunrise over Cabo San Juan
The nudist beach
You can also head to Playa Brava if you have time. It's around a 4-hour hike from Cabo San Juan, as there's no direct route.
Is it worth staying overnight?
I've met people who loved Tayrona National Park and others who really don't rate it very highly.
To be totally frank, if you're only going for the day, it's a pretty expensive day trip to hike for two hours and go to the beach. You'll have around 4-6 hours to soak up some sun, cool off from the sweat, and potter around before you head back before the park closes.
It's not really worth it, in my opinion, to just go for a day trip.
Staying overnight gives you the chance to make the most of the experience in the evenings and mornings when the crowds are gone.
You'll have some friendly neighbours
How to get there
From Cartagena: The easiest way to get to Tayrona National Park from Cartagena is to take the bus with Marsol. Not only will they pick you up from your hostel in Cartagena, but they'll also drop you off either at your hostel near the park or in front of the park entrance.
I found the easiest way to book was to book with your hostel. As I was staying at an Airbnb, I went to a nearby hostel for a transfer.
You can alternatively head to the bus station, get a bus to Santa Marta and then get another bus to your hostel (if you're staying close to the park entrance).
From Santa Marta: There's a direct bus that goes between Santa Marta and Palomino. You can get off at the Tayrona Park entrance.
From Minca: There are buses that go from the main street in Minca to Santa Marta regularly.
From Taganga: You can get a boat to the nudist beach. From there it's a short walk to Cabo San Juan. The boat ride can be pretty choppy, but it will save you having to hike two hours through the forests if that's not your thing.
Where to sleep inside Tayrona National Park
Hammocks: I was a little sceptical about whether I had made the right decision staying in a hammock overnight. From what I had heard, they would be mosquito-infested, and I'd probably get eaten alive.
As it turns out, waking up to the sunrise from the top of the rock in San Cabo overlooking the ocean is one of my highlights in Colombia. I slept really well, cocooned and huddled up inside.
Handy tip: Bring some warm clothes as it can get chilly in the evenings, and if you're sleeping on the rock, bring a warm jumper. It's really windy up there!
I found it useful/necessary to have a sleeping bag liner, leggings and socks.
How much for a hammock: On Cabo San Juan, the price of a hammock on the beach is $40,000 COP ($12.50 / £9.75 / €11.25) and $50,000 COP to sleep on the rock. ($15.80 / £12.18 / €14).
A hammock in Arrecifes is cheaper, starting at $30,000 COP.
Hammocks on the rock in Cabo San Juan
Tents: Whilst I hadn't heard good reviews about the tents before going, they didn't seem too bad.
Camping starts at around $30,000 COP for two people sharing a tent and gets more expensive on Cabo San Juan.
Cabin: I didn't look into cabins too much as they were generally grossly overpriced for their value.
To book your accommodation, head to the park entrance as early as possible to reserve your spot. The rock on the hill in Cabo San Juan is really popular, so best to go early when the park opens at 8 am.
Beware of touts trying to sell you an insurance policy for $3,500 COP. My hostel advised that you really don't need it. If they ask you at the ticket counter for proof, just show them your travel insurance certificate or a copy on your phone.
Where to stay close to the entrance or inside the park
There are several hostels and hotels within a 30-minute walk to the park and also in the park. There's really no point staying in Santa Marta unless you're looking to explore and spend some time there.
Budget-friendly places to stay
Wayanay Tayrona Eco Hostel
A budget-friendly option only 5 minutes from Tayrona Park. They're really helpful if you need information; at the time, they stored my luggage and even upgraded me to a private room at no extra cost on arrival!
Yuluka Eco Hostel
I have to admit, I kind of wished I had stayed here when I had a ponder around. They have a free shuttle to the park at 8 am every day for guests and a really good restaurant.
Recuerdos del Tayrona
Only a 5-minute walk to the park entrance! Warm, friendly and in an ideal location; check out prices and availability below.
Boutique places to stay
Lodge Cacao
In a peaceful setting, surrounded by wildlife, this is the place for you if you’re looking to be surrounded by toucans, hummingbirds and other animals. Each cabin is privately nestled in the jungle and also located close to the park entrance.
Ecohotel Yachay Dentro del Parque Tayrona Inside Tayrona Park
Beautiful and offering mountain views, you might even see the monkeys swinging from the trees. They have an on-site restaurant with freshly prepared food and a range of rooms and suites to choose from.
Senda Watapuy Boutique Hotel Tayrona
In the middle of the jungle, the bungalows are the perfect place to retreat from the world. It’s a dreamy place, and somewhere I’d really want to stay in if I ever go back.
Most places will store your luggage. However, if you need to you can store your bags in a locker at the park.
Hiking through the park
Handy info...
The mosquito situation can be pretty deadly. Saying that I went during the dry season so it really wasn't that bad and I barely got bitten. Take lots of mosquito repellent anyway! you never know!
The park closes during the month of February for maintenance.
To save yourself some time, get the minibus for 5km for $3000 COP at the park entrance, which will take you to the beginning of the hiking trail. If you're there for the day, it's worth it!
Normally your bags will be checked at the entrance and you're supposed to need a yellow fever vaccination. Neither of these was checked for me, although I did go pretty early at 8 am.
Bring a torch... or a charged phone. Getting to the top of the rock in pitch darkness is not easy!
There are plenty of places to eat and you can buy water in the park. Although it is considerably cheaper if you bring as much water as you can with you.
And... Stop for some fresh orange juice!
Sunrise Tayrona National Park | Colombia
Sunrise!
For me, Tayrona National Park is the kind of place you switch off and chill out, whether that be with a good book, lying in a hammock or just hanging out on the beach.
I really wasn't sure if I had made the right decision choosing to stay in the park and if it would be worth it. Looking back, no regrets, I'm glad I did it!
There's just something surreal about watching the sun go down and staring up at a starry sky in your hammock whilst falling asleep to the waves crashing against the shore.
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