WHAT IT'S LIKE TO LIVE IN BUENOS AIRES
Of all the cities I travelled to in South America, Buenos Aires is one that I can see myself going back to again. Having spent over 3 months in Argentina, it's a country that I've grown to become very fond of during my travels.
My first city in South America, I had previously spent 10 days over winter. Now summer was looming, it was a completely different city and I couldn't wait to get to know it!
I spent mornings dipping buttery media lunas into freshly brewed lattes, afternoons exploring the city by bike, evenings in milongas learning tango from the pros, summer nights on rooftops getting to know friends I had made at mate club, Saturday mornings playing touch rugby with expats, Sundays drooling over empanadas in San Telmo and not forgetting my attempt to solve a murder mystery in Spanish at an escape room.
I lived in Buenos Aires, hung out, spent my days working on my blog, explored the sites, sounds and smells of a beautiful city infused with European and Latin American culture.
Here are a few of the things I got up to in Buenos Aires.
Rooftop views of Buenos Aires
Espacio Memoria Y Derechos Humanos Museum
This is one museum that will haunt my memories for a long time to come. During the military dictatorship of the 1970s-1980s, many thousands of people were tortured and killed in the same building where officers lived and trained.
I could feel chills rolling down my spine as I walked around the building. It's an eerie experience but one that is essential if you want to learn more about a part of history that still has an impact on how people live today.
The stories told are shocking and provoking. It can be pretty upsetting in parts too. The crimes committed are still being investigated, so you're advised not to touch anything inside as it could tamper with evidence.
How to get there: From Palermo you can take bus 29 directly there. It's located on Av. del Libertador.
Entry is free to go inside.
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
One of my favourite bookshops, El Ateneo Grand Splendid is a great place of having a ponder, especially when attempting to escape a heatwave. One of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, I spent a couple of afternoons on the sofas reading whilst sipping a cup of coffee.
For some reason they only seemed to have the Marvel comic books... Couldn't find the DC ones anywhere
How to get there: On Av. Santa Fe there are numerous buses that will get you there. If you're going for a wander around Recoleta, it's worth popping inside.
Discovering Buenos Aires by Bike
Buenos Aires has a really great system of city bikes which are free to use and sign up to (even for tourists!).
If you have a couple of hours free, head down to the local Comuna with your passport and register. They'll give you a card which you can use to take the bike and set up your account on the mobile application.
You get a free hour on weekdays and two free hours at a time on weekends. You can take a bike out as many times as you like during the day.
Buenos Aires is pretty much flat, so it's the perfect city to explore using your bike. With designated bike lanes, you can avoid having to cycle in congested roads alongside traffic.
I'd really recommend cycling around the ecological park and along Puerto Madero. The parks in the north of Palermo are great of exploring the northern parts of Buenos Aires.
Checking out Puerto Madero
Handy info: the application you'll need to download is BAbici. After signing up you'll have access to a map with bike stations and available bikes located all across the city.
Check out this handy blog post on how to register ;).
Dine on Pizza Mozzarella at El Guerrin
If you're heading to El Guerrin during Argentine dinner time (typically between 9-11 pm), you'll be standing in a line that extends beyond the exterior of the restaurant.
Ask any Argentinian, there's only one type of pizza that's worth getting here and that's a humble slice of the famous mozzarella. It's so good that it's pretty much the only pizza that flies off the shelf and is almost always fresh out the oven.
A couple of slices are enough to satisfy. Eaten standing up, at times it's so crowded you're elbow to elbow with the guy next to you.
How to get there: Located on Av. Corrientes 1368 outside metro station Uruguay. A slice of pizza is around $1 US.
Pizzaria Guerrin
Pizzzaaaa!
Go for a Dulce de Leche Tasting in San Telmo
There are three things that Argentinians can't live without. They're great meat, mate and dulce de leche. Argentina is the place to get your dulce de leche taste buds tickling.
It's pretty much the Argentinian national peanut butter or jam. San Telmo has a variety of places to go and try and I'd highly recommend it.
The caramel one is my favourite! Don't forget to take some home with you as a souvenir!
Dulce de Leche tasting!
Head to Mate Club
Mate is a traditional Argentinian drink that is usually shared. The best way to describe its taste is that it's a bit like tea.
Most people don't particularly like the taste when they first try it, but after a while, you'll start to enjoy it. Sharing mate is a sociable way of getting to know and bond with people.
Mate Club is a language exchange where foreigners and locals meet up and exchange conversation in Spanish and English. It's a bit like a linguistic version of speed dating and a great way to meet people and practice your Spanish with locals.
How to get there: There are numerous locations throughout the week and you can find out more about it and sign up here.
There's a cost of participating at around $200 ARS.
Day Trip to San Antonio de Areco from Buenos Aires
If you're looking to get out of Buenos Aires for the day, San Antonio de Areco could be the perfect spot. Famous for its gaucho scene, there are a number of tours available where you can hang out with the cowboys of Argentina.
The town itself is small and quaint with a number of restaurants and cafes. Don't forget your camera, as it's the perfect place to snap away for an afternoon!
San Antonio de Areco
How to get there: From terminal Retiro in Buenos Aires, there are a number of buses that leave during the day with the bus company Chevallier.
The cost of a return trip is around £9/€11/$12.
Watching the Lunar Eclipse
One evening I noticed how prominent the moon looked and mentioned to my friend how beautiful it was. After a quick google search, he found out that there would be a lunar eclipse that evening.
On 21/1/2019, I watched my first lunar eclipse from the terrace of my apartment where the moon shone blood red. It was amazing to be able to experience this. On a clear summer night, with the stars twinkling, it was one of my highlights!
Getting to Level 3 of Tango
There are a number of places in Buenos Aires to take tango classes, most notably La Viruta and La Catedral. For me however, I found that DNI had the best format of classes where instructions would be given in Spanish and English and there would be a number of assistants to help out during the class.
It's a great way to meet people and head to a milonga after class (often to La Catedral). It's pretty amazing when you have no idea how to dance and you last a whole song without stepping on your partner's feet! :)
To find out more about classes and schedules at DNI, you can check out their page here.
How to get there: Located on Bulnes 1011, the nearest metro station is Medrano.
Classes are around $150 - $180 ARS.
Getting to Know the Neighbourhoods of Buenos Aires Better
When exploring Buenos Aires you're spoilt for choice on where to explore.
From the hipster vibes of Palermo to the elaborate architecture of Recoleta, simply take a stroll from one barrio to the next.
If you're captured by the energetic and lively spirit of La Boca, take a casual ponder over to a more colonial San Telmo to catch some seductive street tango.
Or maybe the riverside chic of Puerto Madero might be more your thing for a slothful summer afternoon.
Whether it's the neighbouring barrios of tranquil Villa Crespo or historical and bustling Microcentro, Buenos Aires is very much the dynamic and cosmopolitan hub of Latin America.
Puerto Madero
Palermo is the most trendy and fashionable place to be with all the hip bars, restaurants and modern cafes. It's one of my favourite neighbourhoods mainly due to the green spaces in the north.
Foodie lovers like me will love the hip and cool vibes of San Telmo. On a Sunday try the mouth-watering, famous empanadas at El Hornero. It can also be worth popping by on a weekday if you prefer to avoid the queues.
Naturally, I spent more time in each of the neighbourhoods and even hopped around on Airbnb apartments. Villa Crespo was a great place to stay due to its proximity to Palermo and you can get more for your buck.
I loved having my own private apartment for a few weeks where I could wind down and really have my own space. Not to mention the asado grill that came with it was an added bonus!
Spending more time in the different barrios meant I could head out with my camera and snap away! Buenos Aires is a really photogenic city, so if you get a spare few hours, casually stroll around with a camera in hand!
La Boca and San Telmo... Yup that's another epic pic of empanadas!
Summer Nights on Rooftop Bars
For a city that starts a night out at 2 am (even on Sundays!), the nightlife will not disappoint! Between the dazzling limelight of Palermo to sexy and supremely confident tango shows in San Telmo, chilling out with Porteños (locals from Buenos Aires) after work on a lazy afternoon was one of my highlights! Argentinians are really friendly and will be more than welcome to help you practice your Spanish (if you can keep up with theirs). 😉
Summer in Buenos Aires meant one thing. Being outdoors and enjoying the amazing weather. After freezing my butt off for most of South America, I relished in warm, long summer evenings.
There are a number of rooftop bars in Buenos Aires. I loved Esquina Libertad, Bar Soria in Palermo and Post Street Bar.
For the aspiring polyglots out there, Bar Soria hosts a language exchange on Thursday evenings. Another great way to meet people in town, especially if you're a solo traveller.
For a great speakeasy, I'd recommend Bar 878 :)
Admiring the Beautiful Sunsets
I'm a sucker for a great sunset and there's nothing that stops me on the spot more than a sky lit up in an array of shades in red, pink and yellow.
My apartment had a great unlocked rooftop where I could spend my evenings. If you're unable to get onto your rooftop, then the best next bet would be to find a bar or hotel. Sky Bar has some amazing views!
Full moon + sunsets
Coffee Shop Hopping Around Palermo
I love a good cup of coffee! And there's no shortage of places to get your favourite beverage in Buenos Aires.
Lab Coffee Shop: A training centre and a coffee shop, it's a really cool cafe and known for some of the best coffee in Buenos Aires. A nice little hangout spot for a couple of hours.
Located at Humboldt 1542, Palermo
Cigalo: With really good wifi, you'll probably find people hanging out here with their laptop. Great coffee and pastries, a cute little stop-off point on your way through Palermo.
Located at Gurruchaga 1876 A, Palermo
Ninina: Whether it's for lunch, coffee or a nice cup of tea, Ninina is slightly pricier but worth it for the great breakfast options they offer.
Located at Gorriti 4738, Buenos Aires
Cafe Flor: If you're looking for a co-working space, Cafe Flor has great wifi and unlimited snacks and coffee. The staff are great and you don't need a membership to use the space.
Located on Thames 1824, Palermo
Sipping tea at Ninina
Spending New Years in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is surprisingly quiet for New Years' in a big city. Most locals tend to leave and many head to Uruguay or Mar del Plata.
So when asking locals on where the best spots for new years in Buenos Aires are, I was left without much of a lead. They all pretty much agreed that if you head to Palermo, you'll have a good time.
That's what I did.
I spent my New Year's toasting with my Airbnb family. And around 1 am I headed to a bar to meet up with a friend I'd met in Patagonia. We headed to Victoria Brown for a lively evening on the town.
Eat, Eat + Eat
Argentina has some great food. Admittedly when I head back to Europe, I'll probably go back to eating little to no meat. When in Argentina though...
Head to the markets, butchers and enjoy what's best, cooking with local ingredients.
Getting that asado grill going...
Fun fact, the first thing I learnt in Spanish was all the different cuts of meat!
Where to Stay in Buenos Aires
When I first arrived in Buenos Aires in the winter, I stayed in The Chillhouse Hostel located conveniently near my favourite milongas! The nearest subway station is Carlos Gardel, this location is conveniently very central!
I generally found that the price of a cute Airbnb matched that of a decent hostel so I spent most of my time hopping around the city from Palermo to Villa Crespo and Caballito. If you go little outside of Palermo, you'll find more for your dollar, with perhaps a slightly longer walk or a short bus ride in.
Click here for a discount on your first stay with Airbnb!
Where to stay:
Caravan BA: Located in Palermo, this hostel is booked up far in advance. Warm and welcoming, click here to check out availability.
The Haig: Located in Palermo, it's perfect for making the most of a vibrant neighbourhood. Mainly apartments, check out availability here.
America Del Sur: Clean and comfortable, if you're looking for somewhere sociable, then this might be for you. Located in San Telmo, it's perfect for exploring the markets nearby. Click here to check out availability.
Voyage Recoleta Hostel: If you're looking to stay in Recoleta, this hostel might be for you! Check it out here!
On a side note, be mindful that there are areas in Buenos Aires you'll want to stay away from, especially in the evening. La Boca is one of them, whilst it's lovely during the day, generally, the locals advise not to wander around after dark. The same goes for Retiro, the area around the train station.
Buenos Aires feels very much like a European city and it's easy to let your guard down. Always stay vigilant and be mindful of where you're walking, especially in the evening. Oh and watch out of the motorbikes riding by close to you! Phone snatchers are common...
And that was Buenos Aires, a vibrant melting pot of cultural mix that proudly holds the title of the Paris of South America. Leaving to go to Uruguay felt strange, as I had somehow made Buenos Aires a home away from home. I was almost reluctant to go. Maybe someday I'll be back, I have a feeling I might be.
Planning a trip or fancy a freebie? These are some websites and services I love:
Booking.com: For the best hotel deals! 🏝
World Nomads: Travel insurance on the go 🌎
Airbnb: For the best apartment deals!🏡
Affiliate links above!
PIN IT FOR LATER...
