TUPIZA, BOLIVIA: A PHOTOGENIC GEM
Tupiza was my first introduction to Bolivia (minus the border crossing). This little town nestled at 2900 meters above sea level, enclosed by a rainbow spectrum of mountains lies peacefully in a gorgeous desert region. With a modest population of around 25,000 inhabitants, the locals rely somewhat on tourism. Initially, I had planned for it to be a stop off before either heading to Sucre or doing the Salt Flats tour. Yet, its quiet charm, fresh markets and DIY hikes, left me hanging around for a couple more days, if only to sip on another freshly squeezed orange juice in the burning heat of the day.
After a sketchy border crossing, I was more than happy to have reached Tupiza unscathed. Wandering into town looking for a place to stay, the colonial architecture, mountainous backdrops and bustling little market was enough to convince me to put my bags down. I headed straight for the central market where the aromas of home-made sopas de quinua, milanesas and guisos left me salivating.
Wandering through the streets, I was spoilt for choice trying out the array of fresh juices, filling my day bag up with fresh vegetables and herbs and getting my first taste of coca leaves. I went on hikes. Took hundreds of photos. Soaked up the atmosphere of the local bands hooting their trumpets. Enjoyed the 28+ degrees during the day whilst layering up in -2 degrees in the dead of night. Crossing over from Argentina, I actually felt like I could understand and speak some Spanish for the first time. I decided Bolivia wasn't just going to be a stopping point on the way to Chile or Peru. Planning out the rest of my route, I savoured my first taste of Bolivia.
Mercado Central
This is where it's at. Seriously.
Whether you head to the comerdores (food hall) for lunch or ponder around, your pockets are sure to be left a little lighter. A typical main course in the food hall costs around 6B ( £0.70 GB/ $0.90 US). If that isn't enough you can wander down to the stalls below and pick up whatever takes your fancy.
In the evenings, I struggled to find restaurant options that didn't involve fried chicken and chips. Yep... really. I spent the best part of 2 hours looking for somewhere and even asked the locals who shook their heads. Opting to buy fresh vegetables and cook at the hostel made my evening.
Did I get scammed? Yes of course! It was still much cheaper than Sucre and boy did the scamming start in Sucre!
Cerro Cruz
My hostel recommended this to me and they were right to do so! It's relatively easy to hike however don't be fooled by Google's timings on taking an hour to climb from the centre. I'm a pretty good hiker but this was the first time I felt the effects of the altitude. Struggling for breath on the way up, I needed a few pit stops for water (bring plenty!) and shade.
In order to get there, you'll need to cross Rio Tupiza and make your way around a sports ground until you get up the hill to the main road circling the mountain. Follow the road around going up and you'll see a sign marking the start of the climb. If you're unsure, ask a local. I started walking up the wrong way until a local pointed me in the right direction towards the church. From there, the path is clearly marked with steps going up.
Bring plenty of water and sunscreen along with some good shoes as some of the rocks can be slippery. The climb is just out of town and I was nervous to be doing this climb by myself. However, my hostel assured me that it's safe and many tourists do it every day. I had my DSLR with me and was hesitant to use it at first, after speaking to some local people it seemed pretty OK. Nonetheless, exercise the same precautions as you would anywhere else and if in doubt just leave your valuables behind.
Cerro Corazon de Jesus
This is an easy one to do. From the central market, it's around a 15-20 minute walk going up a steep hill. You'll see the peak from the centre of town. The views from the top are stunning! Much of the landscape reminded me of what I'd seen in Jujuy at Cerro de Los Siete Colores. If you missed out on Jujuy or just can't get enough of the landscape, then this is a great place to go for a short DIY hike and experience the serenity and calmness of the beautiful region.
Where to stay
There's a lot of choice for those of you looking for cheap budget accommodation. For solo travellers out there, it's worth negotiating the price of your room especially if you're looking to stay in a private room.
My hostel gave me a private room for 40B (£4.50 GB / $5.80 US), which after spending over a month in dorm rooms, was a breath of fresh air! You can find out more about where I stayed right here.
The tours
Tupiza is a really popular destination to begin your tour of the Salar de Uyuni. Most places charge around 1250-1350B (starting at £135 GB / $180 US).
As I knew I wanted to go into Chile and it is possible to cross the border into Atacama on the tour, I decided leave it until the last stop and try my luck with Uyuni.
Onward travel
From the bus station, you'll find connections to almost anywhere in Bolivia. To Potosi, I took a day bus for 6 hours costing 30B (£3.30 GB / $4.40 US). There are overnight buses to Sucre for 40B(£4.50 GB / $5.80 US). As well as buses to La Paz for between 50B-150B (starting at £5.50 GB / $7.25 US) taking around 12 hours and Uyuni for 40-50B (5 hours).
Planning a trip or fancy a freebie? These are some websites and services I love:
Booking.com: For the best hotel deals! 🏝
World Nomads: Travel insurance on the go 🌎
Airbnb: For the best apartment deals!🏡
Affiliate links above!
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